2007 XYZin 100 Year

Viticulturally, it is common for most 100-year old vines to be head-trained and spur-pruned. These are the low, gnarly old vines you see throughout California, which, unlike modern, trellised crops, are only a couple of feet off the ground. In head-trained (or goblet) vines, a free-form canopy of leaves falls across the fruiting zone, which permits some – but not too much - sunlight to touch the fruit surface. This dappled sunlight promotes a slower, more even, ripening of grapes. This system also allows for good air circulation through the canopy, which aids in the prevention of rots and molds. Finally, many old vines are mildly infected by viruses, which, in general, make photosynthesis less efficient. Thus, the vine is forced to work harder to mature the fruit. For some magical, mysterious reason, the presence of a virus, in the right balance in the vine, produces more flavorful Zinfandel fruit. These ancient vines can yield wines with a complexity and mystery that continues to tantalize and enthrall me.

Why am I so enthralled by old Zinfandel vines? Because they are part of America’s history, and you can taste that history in the glass. One hundred years ago, immigrants to the U.S. from Italy, Croatia and Eastern Europe mostly planted hearty varieties that could survive cross-country travel, required minimal nurturing once planted, and lent themselves to successful home winemaking. Zinfandel’s exceptional hardiness, intense color and inclination toward attaining high sugar levels made it a logical, and frequent, choice for planting in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. These sturdy vines produce small, deeply colored berries that yield rich, concentrated wines with a pleasingly familiar array of flavors and textures. The 2007 is a voluptuous vintage enrobed in a deep scarlet hue and boasting flavors of jammy briar blackberry fruit, blood orange and raspberry preserves. The aromas lead with mocha and toffee then give way to pomegranate mulling spice. The flavors come in layers and there is tremendous depth to the wine as well as solid tannins that provide structure and definition including a savory sensation to the otherwise supple fruit.

There is a dignity to this old-vine Zin that merits its pairing with simple, honest cuisine and comfort food. Enjoy with ratatouille, shrimp and grits, or rustic breads with hearty cheeses.

485 cases