2009 XYZin 100 Year

The Dry Creek Valley is in my opinion the spiritual home of the Zinfandel grape thus it is fitting that our oldest vines reside there on the eastern benchland overlooking the valley below. These sturdy vines produce small, deeply colored berries that yield rich, concentrated wines with a pleasingly familiar array of flavors and textures. Remarkable for its depth of color and early drinkability the wine displays plum and blueberry fruit on the nose along with a whiff of crystallized ginger. On the palate the abundant pomegranate and dried strawberry fruit is further refined by accents of espresso and graphite. A whisper of tarragon leaf adds dimension and polish to the wine.

In XYZin 100, I look for concentration, complexity and depth of flavor. Older vines generally struggle to produce a small crop, and what is produced tends to make wines that are inky dark in color, with a dense core of fruit and a wonderful earthy component that is often referred to as terroir. These old vines have roots that dig deep into the soil in search of water and nutrients. At the same time, the vines absorb and transport some of those deep soil characters into the fruit. Viticulturally, it is common for most 100-year old vines to be head-trained and spur-pruned. These are the low, gnarly old vines you see throughout California, which, unlike modern, trellised crops, are only a couple of feet off the ground. In head-trained (or goblet) vines, a free-form canopy of leaves falls across the fruiting zone, which permits some – but not too much - sunlight to touch the fruit surface. This dappled sunlight promotes a slower, more even, ripening of grapes. This system also allows for good air circulation through the canopy, which aids in the prevention of rots and molds. Finally, many old vines are mildly infected by viruses, which, in general, make photosynthesis less efficient. Thus, the vine is forced to work harder to mature the fruit. For some magical, mysterious reason, the presence of a virus, in the right balance in the vine, produces more flavorful Zinfandel fruit. These ancient vines can yield wines with a complexity and mystery that continues to tantalize and enthrall me.

Our claret style of Zinfandel is made with the intention it being enjoyed with food. The balanced fruit and earth components will pair well with dishes that combine sweet and savory. Some of my favorites include caponata, rotisserie chicken with yellow raisins and cranberries, kabocha squash with miso glaze, and simple, classic bruschetta on extra sourdough bread.